State of the art machinery and software which ensures accuracy and quality:
Altendorf F45 panel saw
Holzher 1320 edgebander
Holzher 7135 CNC machine
No clip-on kicks. Most cabinetmakers have the adjustable feet attached to each cabinet and then a kick is clipped onto the feet (or sometimes liquid nailed on). This usually means that the end panels on the cabinetwork go all the way to the floor and the kick runs between these panels. This panel protrudes out from the kick and is easily damaged by sweeping, vacuuming, mopping and from contact with feet (figure 1). Our kicks are attached to a base and this base has the adjustable feet attached to it. Once this base is levelled all cabinets are placed upon it and screwed down. This gives a neater appearance on the corners of the kicks and also means there are no end panels running to the floor (figure 2).
Kicks can be scribed to the floor if required leaving a minimal gap. With timber floors, this means no timber beading around your kicks (figure 3).
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Stone tops are mitred and then the stone is returned underneath as standard (figure 4). The standard method for building up the thickness of the benchtop fascia is to glue two 20mm peices of stone together. You will be told that the join isn't visible. This is sometimes true but over time the coloured adhesive changes and you will be left with a line along the front of your expensive bench top (figure 5).
Choice of no visible end panels. 99% of cabinetmakers only provide visible end panels from the front (figure 6).
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All overhead cabinets have matching coloured under panels. A number of cabinetmakers will just edge in melamine the raw chipboards ends of each cabinet and then screw them together leaving the underside of the cabinet looking unsightly and a different colour to that of your doors (figure 7). We install a panel the same colour (or colour of your choice) to the underside of the overhead cabinets as standard.
Low voltage (LV) LED downlights as standard.
LV lights are installed into the underpanel of the overhead cabinets (figure 8). We do this to prevent the yellowing that occurs from the heart given off when a downlight is installed into the 16mm particleboard bottom of a cabinet. Another method used by some cabinetmakers is to just drill a hole into the bottom of your cabinet and have the back of the light visible (figure 9).
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A choice of recessed or flush scribes, the choice is yours.
Corner scribes to prevent handle collision and appliance collision (figure 10). We have seen so many kitchens where the client cannot open the dishwasher because the door collides with the handle of the adjacent cabinet.
No continuous shelf holes. Why have shelf holes 10mm from the bottom and top of a cabinet? It’s not like you’re going to put a shelf there. This is why, we don't have continuous shelf holes (figure 11). Our shelves are centred to the cabinet and have between 3 – 5 holes which are spaced at 64mm centres rather than 32mm (figure 12).This gives a much neater appearance.
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Adjustable shelving as standard.
No external screws, pin holes or screw caps/stickers. We try our utmost to build cabinets with no visible external fixings.
Cabinets are pinned and screwed together. A number of cabinetmakers only pin their cabinets together.
Blum Tandem drawers have no visible pin or screw assembley. Most cabinetmakers will either put stickers over the holes or just leave the pin holes visible (figure 13).
All appliances, sinks, taps, basins, electronics, etc are pre measured in our factory before the set out of your cabinetwork commences. This ensures accuracy and correct fit of your appliances.
All cabinetwork is pre assembled in our factory and then inspected by the client before delivery. This ensures any mistakes can be corrected and gives the client a chance to make changes before delivery (figure 14).
